A feature by Pritisha Borthakur
Soyi Pansa, a former Air India employee, leads a team of passionate and creative jewellery makers. Together, they have established Tribal Fashion Jewellery, a venture that is fast becoming one of the shining lights emerging from the new crop of Wancho tribal jewellers. As a native of Longding town, home of the Wancho people and one of the major towns in Arunachal Pradesh, Pansa has always been passionate about creative work. Today, she is living that dream along with four other dynamic individuals, pioneering online delivery of jewellery, not just within the state and India, but also globally.
“The demand is huge,” she says. “We have clients in the UK, the US, and several other parts of the world because they love our beads and jewellery. Our beads have a very vibrant tone that not only illuminates the culture and richness of the Wancho tribe, but also offers a perspective that breaks the barriers of cultural, ethnic, and geographical boundaries. Our contemporary aboriginal artworks on beads and jewellery designs suit all from the culture to catwalk fashion show,” she adds. Other members of the team — Phebo Wangsa and Toiman Pansa — are also extremely skilled in craftsmanship and see the venture as an opportunity to show the vibrancy and dynamism of the Wancho people.
All across the state of Arunachal Pradesh, the Wancho people flourish and bask in the land of dawn-lit mountains. This Northeastern state is the pride of the seven sister states and is blessed with diverse cultures and ethnicities. Remarkably, the state also boasts rich vegetation and forests, providing raw materials for most of its forest-based products. The growing popularity of jewellery emanating from both Wancho men and women is taking the world by storm, characterised by materials like cane, bamboo, seeds, glass beads, reed, etc.
Players spurring the growth of Wancho Jewellery
If you’ve ever come across the beaded ties made by Banwang Losu’s Patkai Organic Products, you would know how innovative the brand is. The bead ties are the obvious best sellers — worn by celebrities and fashion icons — but they are not the only incredible products made by them. Beyond selling and beautifying people, Losu, owner of Patkai Organic Products, is a true ambassador of the local culture. “Our extensive range of products – earrings, necklaces, gives people an inclination and awakens their curiosity to know about our culture.
“They will better understand our arts and crafts, lifestyle, traditions, and even our history. Our foreign buyers often tell us how much they love our products because they are unique. We produce them from natural, forest-based items and the designs are intricate. On our part, we are able to support the local artisans of Kamhua Noknu village and showcase their work as well, while exhibiting the beauty and magic of Wancho to the rest of the world,” Losu says.
Like Losu, Toiman Pansa of Tribal Fashion Jewellery has shouldered the responsibility of preserving and promoting the traditional arts and crafts of the locals, while also urging others to join the train. Through the startup, they are also providing jobs to local artisans.
The dexterity, quality, and uniqueness of Wancho jewellery are also attracting other jewellery brands to collect and resell their timeless pieces. Tongam Khangam, the founder of Khangam Jewellery, sells necklaces and earrings, made from the local “like” (beads) to business owners, designers, and fashion enthusiasts worldwide. Khangam is fast becoming a voice for the culture. “I exhibited my collection at Season 6 of Northeast International Fashion Week, the 10th edition of North East Festival in Delhi, and several other events, and the reception has been very encouraging. This year we have also introduced men’s jewellery designs with an aim to make our brand inclusive. Our wedding collection is really gorgeous and we’ve found many B2B and B2C buyers from across the country.”
People loved the bead bracelets, earrings, and necklaces that Khangam had on display. Her aim has always been to promote the Wancho culture and ethnicity by adding a mix of modernity so that it becomes more appealing to people of all genders, ages and fashion senses. As Nikita Dahal, a student at the National Institute of Fashion Technology in Delhi says, “Khangam’s collection of ornaments is simply beautiful. The lightweight red and green necklace I bought from them last year at the North East Festival, held in Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium, is a masterpiece.
“Personally, I love how she takes her time to explain in detail all the materials used, the influences, where they are derived, and what informs their use in the product. It is inspiring for me as an aspiring designer. I also love that her jewellery is very dynamic and can be worn on anything and at all times, just like the beaded pipe earrings my friend bought,” Dahal adds.
From Wancho to the World: building an enduring legacy
Through detailed craftsmanship, creativity, innovation, and a penchant for local originality, the jewellery industry built from scratch by inspiring members of the Wancho tribe has grown tremendously over the years. Remarkably, the 35,000 tribal people settling on the Patkai hills of Longding have found a visible spot on the global map. Indeed, their tribal jewellery tradition has endured several centuries, and there are indications that it will endure many more to come.